Hemingway Clothiers doesn’t want to sell you a suit. Or a custom shirt. Or a pair of trousers. Puzzled? Here’s what I learned chatting with this tailoring house that wants to offer its clients something else.
If this article captured your attention, it’s likely you, like me, are part of the rising tide of interest in quality menswear. Whether it started with the trite “Quiet Luxury” or the so called “Old Money” fashion influencer trends or a genuine admiration for your well-dressed grandfather’s classic sense of style …whatever got you here, the point is you’re on the journey. Hang on tight, it’s a slippery slope, and the sooner you find your footing better. For the uninitiated, classic menswear can be intimidating and can seem to get progressively more “snobbish” the further down the rabbit hole you go. What defines quality? What constitutes value? How can one develop a better sense of style and taste? Hemingway Clothiers offers a unique tailoring experience that provides sound counsel on all questions sartorial.
The House of Hemingway
Hannah Ocoma, Sai Sison and JP Centeno are partners in a tailoring house that puts its customers interests first. Hemingway Clothiers don’t just want to sell you garments. In fact they don’t want to “sell” you anything. Their goal is a simple one. They want to guide you through a made-to-measure, custom process that sees you happily leaving the shop wearing a perfectly fitted suit with the all the attention to detail required, in the most reasonable time possible…with as little BS involved. Nothing more and certainly nothing less.
As pragmatic a process as that may sound, it’s a goal that subsequently services what you as a customer primarily came for and it’s what they as a tailoring house want for you. When you skip the smoke and mirrors that can often surround the menswear space, this is the unvarnished truth: It’s about you, excitedly wearing the custom garments you commissioned in timely fashion.
Quality tailoring in terms of proper construction, well-chosen and appropriate materials, in a cut and style that suits you, within a reasonable turnaround time are to be expected. These are the minimum standards that any tailoring house worth their salt should provide. Hemingway ticks all these boxes, but it’s the attention they put into the “curation” process to give you the best value that separates them.
Hemingway certainly doesn’t hold patent on the curation process of a commission, certainly other tailoring houses offer it too. But they take an exuberant pride in practicing their craft in the service of the client and not just their bottom line. Now I don’t mean to imply that Hemingway is inexpensive. An inescapable fact in menswear is quality costs, but like all things, there is a point of diminishing returns. Head Curator, JP Centeno, breaks down their core value: “You get your money’s worth here, and we aren’t gonna upsell you anything you don’t need”.
Indeed, what I found refreshing when I commissioned my first suit was instead of jumping straight into measurements and fabric swatches there was instead discussion on where and how I intended to wear the suit. What I wanted to achieve, what else I already had in my wardrobe that could work with it. It’s a collaborative discussion to help them gauge more clearly what you want, if you understand what actually suits you and also if are willing to be counselled if there are better ways to achieve what you want from your commission. It’s invaluable tutelage for those of us on the journey. The result of which leaves you a better-dressed and more discerning customer. And there’s nothing they’d like more than that. More people who better understand the finer points of menswear means more people who can recognize the dedication Hemingway have to their craft and understand the superior but attainable tailoring that they promise.
When pressed to define their “house cut” or distinct style, Hemingway opts to point out details they prefer but not necessarily defines them. Wider lapels, barchetta breast pockets, quality handwork like Milanese buttonholes, and pique stitching are details you’ll often find in their work. As you gain more understanding of the finer points, these details are beautiful easter eggs to recognize on your garments. And those who are well versed in sartorial matters, understand that these traditional details are subtle expressions of carefully-crafted classical tailoring of the higher end. Despite what they offer, Hemingway are careful to dodge the pretentions of the often mis-used term “bespoke”, and they are also averse to being labeled a “traditional tailoring house”, instead they like the idea of occupying the intersection between old and new. Being experienced enough to understand the classic rules and traditions but flexible enough to bend them as needed to get the best results for each client. “If a client wants a close-cut Italian style suit but is built like a linebacker, it’s a disservice to the client for the curator not to steer him to a cut that will work better for his frame. We take into consideration client’s preferences and guide them towards what will suit them best” says Aaron Sanchez, Curating Consultant.
Knowing what will best complement you only comes with experience. And this is what clients will likely appreciate most with Hemingway, what is best for a client may not necessarily be slavish adherence to traditional style constructs. They also like to call a spade a spade: sometimes more expensive fabrics from more “prestigious” mills may not necessarily make a better suit. Sometimes it just might mean more expense for a client and a better margin for the tailoring house. Admittedly, there’s a space for every type of service, every type of product and every type of client in menswear, but Hemingway Clothiers are clear on who they are and where they stand.
So no, Hemingway Clothiers do not want to “sell” you a suit. But rather what they want is to build a relationship with you. One that sees you consistently well-tailored, more tasteful, more knowledgeable and more importantly more in love with menswear in the way they are. And this is what makes them such a pleasure to collaborate with, they are genuinely just as excited as you are for your suit. The ultimate goal for the Hemingway team is for you to come in for the first fitting; to find they’ve used their experience, tailoring savvy and expert curation to give you exactly what you collaboratively envisioned.
Hemingway’s Head Curator nails it by saying “What really makes our day is when a client comes in for their first fitting and wants to wear the suit home, right there and then. And when a client can’t help but send a selfie and an extra thank you when they get home… Nothing says we did our job right, the way that does”.
Hemingway specializes in menswear but also offers beautifully crafted suiting for women. Contact them directly for an appointment via their social media platforms. @hemingwayclothiers