If you are fortunate enough to have a Rolex on your wrist, chances are it’s a Datejust, or a GMT maybe even a Submariner. These are go-to models, especially if it’s your first investment. They’re easily spotted by the casual observer, easily found, easily acquired and also easily disposed-off, should the need arise, because they suit everyone’s taste. Sure and solid investments, they’re conventional and easy. Period.
Not at all saying these aren’t desirable models. Conventional doesn’t mean less-attractive, far from it, but ever notice though how something that not everyone has makes it more interesting? Rarity enhances appeal, especially for the seasoned afficionado.
The Rolex Milgauss is one such timepiece. Introduced between 1954-55, this was an admittedly very niche tool watch. As a watch designed for scientists it didn’t evoke the same “ruggedly capable” imagery that a pilot’s or diver’s watch does but it is every bit the specialist’s tool watch as a GMT or a Sea Dweller. I mean where would the rockets heroic pilots fly come from if there weren’t for the rocket scientists who build them?
What makes the Milgauss stand out is it was designed to be unaffected by magnetic fields of up to 1000 gauss, a measure of magnetic force. Mil from the French word mille for thousand, combined with gauss creates the eponymous model designation. By using an inner soft-iron faraday cage to shield the caliber from magnetic forces, Rolex created a rare specialist watch that soon became a favorite with geniuses at CERN, the European Organization for Nuclear Research. Nor was it a unique idea either as notable makers like Patek, Omega and Jaeger Le Coultre also had their own versions of anti-magnetic watches…perhaps great minds do think alike after all?
Between 1955 and 1988, the Milgauss was released with a 38mm case in different variations. First models came with the reference 6541 and 6543. They will be elusive and beyond reach of the casual collector. After a brief break between 1988-2006, it was re-introduced again in 2007 as the Modern 40mm Milgauss referenced as 116400, which while still relatively rare and uncommon, are a little more attainable to those who like to not-be-like-everyone-else.
Among the modern Milgauss releases, the 116400GV anniversary edition with the black face and green glass (or glasse verte in French, hence the GV designation) would be the most eye-catching. The contrast of the green hues and details cast on the black dial from the special Rolex-only green crystal and the visual pop of that signature lightning-bolt shaped second hand in bright orange is a striking combination of colors and elements.
Perhaps you’re lucky enough to already have crossed-off timeless classics like a Datejust or a Daytona from your list and are ready for less obvious pieces. Or perhaps you may just be brave enough to make the statement: “I’m-not-like-everyone-else” straight off the bat. Whichever it is, the Milgauss is a symbol of the horology-enthusiast that balks at convention. The Milgauss’ last year of production was 2022, making this unusual bird even more interesting when spotted in the wild in the years to come. A true conversation piece for the more experienced crown-spotter.
Pictured is a 2009 specimen available from Vittore Vintage (@vittorevintage) and can be viewed by appointment.