The Oxford and the Derby are both staples in every well-heeled gentleman’s wardrobe, but which is which and what’s more appropriate for where? To the experienced eye, the difference is clear. For many of us starting on this journey the details may not be as obvious.
It boils down to construction. And this is where a few picture will help. Oxfords have the “Quarters” or the part of the shoe where the laces go, sewn under the “Vamp” or the front part of the shoe. This is often referred to as closed-lacing. Closed lacing looks a touch sleeker and more streamlined and makes this type of construction more ideal for more formal dressing.
Derbys on the other hand feature what is called open-lacing. The quarters are sewn on top of the vamp. There’s a bit more adjustability in fit with this construction depending on how loose or tightly one laces the shoe. Though there is no hard rule these days against Derbys for formal dressing, having their origins in country shoes, they are often thought of as a bit more casual and therefore are the go-to for less formal occasions.
And for some added shoe nomenclature that you can flex, the scalloped edges and decorative perforations on shoes are called “Broguing”. Shoes featuring this embellishment are casually referred to as Brogues. Strictly speaking, describing a shoe as a Brogue simply means a shoe featuring this decorative treatment and can be either an Oxford or a Derby in terms of construction.